So I have bragged on here a few times about my shooting prowess. I’ve posted some of my results shooting my Crosman 1377 pump-action pellet pistol. I’ve posted about how I was unable to sight in my Hatsan 125 Striker pellet rifle, and how they agreed to replace it based on my description of it’s accuracy problems. The replacement is supposed to arrive today. So I’ll hopefully get a chance to do some shooting tonight to see if the new gun performs as advertised.
In the meantime I have been doing some Youtube surfing for pellet gun shooting tips. In that surfing I stumbled across a couple of different guys who use pellet guns for pest control and hunting small game. They post videos of their shooting, meaning you get to see the raw footage of birds, squirrels, chipmunks, crows, etc. being blasted by pellets.
Yeah, sorta gruesome, but in a fascinating sort of way.
But the thing that has really interested me is in how they shoot.
When I was a kid I used to hunt quite a bit. My hunting more or less stopped when I got married, and I haven’t hunted now in over 25 years. Back when I did hunt, the only hunting I ever did with a scope was hunting for deer. All of my squirrel and rabbit hunting was done with barrel sights, and all of my bird hunting (mostly quail, duck, geese and dove) was done with a shotgun.
Since I did very little deer hunting, and never took what I would call a “challenging” shot at a deer (by design, I always wanted a quick, clean kill when hunting) I never really learned much about scopes.
But these guys use their scopes on everything.
What they do is mount a digital camera onto their scope, attached directly where your eye would go, and they then look at the image on the camera back to sight in on their target. They record the whole thing, so you get to see the shot exactly as if you were looking through the scope when the shot is made.
I have learned a lot from this. Because pellets travel much slower than .22 bullets, even relatively short shots have to factor in pellet drop and windage. And while each has their own unique way to set up and execute the shot, their basic process is very similar.
Basically everything is done according to “mil-dots.” What is a “mil-dot?” Well, when you look through a scope you obviously see the crosshairs (known as a “reticle” in the scope biz). But on the crosshairs going vertically and horizontally you should see a series of dots or hash lines regularly spaced across them. These are mil-dots. The standard mil-dot spacing is set to indicate 100mm of target size at 100 meters. Yeah, they are built in metric units. That converts to 3.6″ at 100 yards. That means that if you are zeroed in on the exact center of a bullseye at 100 yards, the mil-dots will indicate 3.6″ steps away from the bullseye.
Now, scopes with variable magnification will sometimes have variable mil-dot distance, but for the sake of argument I’ll stick with the “standard” mil-dot sizing.
Now, how does this help you?
Like most novices I assumed that it mostly was a way to do on-the-fly adjustments for windage and elevation. Meaning if your scope was sighted in at 60 yards, then at 40 yards you might need to sight in a mil-dot below the bullseye, or on a 100 yard shot you might need to sight in 3 mil-dots above the target.
I figured it was a sort of “trial and error” thing until you got comfortable with the scope and gun. And that works OK, you can do that. But it turns out that there is an actual science that you can apply to this such that if you know your gun and scope (and your targets) well enough, you can do pretty amazing shots on your first shot.
For example… anyone who has ever been trained to shoot a gun knows about “windage and elevation”. For elevation, the idea is that you should know where your bullet/pellet will hit based on the range of the shot. Windage is trickier, but elevation is really almost pure ballistics.
For target shooting this isn’t all that much of a deal. You typically know what the distance is for your shot, and if you know your gun, based on that range, you know how high or low the gun will shoot.
The problem most folks have is that when you are hunting, you have to estimate the range of your target. As anyone who has ever played golf will tell you, the difference between 120 yards and 130 yards is frequently the difference between a par and a double-bogey. And not many people have the skill to use their eyes to estimate distance that accurately.
So, one of the two shooters uses a laser range-finder. That’s fine, but it’s a step you have to take and if your batteries die, or you drop the range-finder, or it just stops working for some reason, you’re back to guesstimating range. And the difference of ten yards in your guesstimate when shooting at something the size of a clenched fist is usually the difference between a hit and a miss.
But, the secret to this is that you can use your scope as a rangefinder. But to do that, you have to know how big your targets are.
Let’s say you are hunting starlings. Why would you be hunting starlings? Well, mostly because starlings are an invasive species which crowd out native species for nesting and food. If you like to see cardinals, bluebirds or other songbirds, you might want to thin out the starling population a bit. Hunting starlings as pest eradication is pretty common.
A starling is about six inches tall. And they don’t vary much in size. So you can pretty well assume that the starling you might be looking at through your scope is six inches tall.
How does that help? Well…. if you are looking at a starling through your scope, and it is a bit less than two mil-dots tall, then that starling is right at about 100 yards away. Now you know the range. Knowing the range should let you know how to adjust for elevation.
Windage is a bit trickier, however, knowing the range also allows you to at least realize how long the bullet/pellet will be in the air, and with practice you can learn how far to adjust for windage. Of course you can be as scientific with windage as you are with elevation if you really want to, but that would mean knowing the exact speed of the wind. Most hunters, and both of the ones I watched on Youtube, just use their “experience” to factor in windage. And when they miss, it’s usually due to miscalculating windage. But they usually only miss once or twice before zeroing in.
So, how do you apply all this to shooting your actual gun?
Well, for a pellet gun it means you need to shoot one, and only one, brand and make of pellet. Using different pellets means different muzzle velocities and wind resistance.
What you have to do is actually plot out your preferred pellet’s ballistic profile. Both of these guys created a ballistic profile that looks like this:

That would show the ballistic trajectory of a pellet fired at 750 feet per second muzzle velocity with a scope set two inches above the muzzle, and the muzzle angled up with respect to the scope at about 1/3 of a degree. This would correspond to a pellet gun “sighted in” at 60 yards. Because of the way the barrel and scope work, that means the pellet actually crosses the horizontal line of the scope twice, once going up as it comes out of the barrel, and once going down as gravity takes over.
This is important because using this chart tells you how far off your pellet will be vertically based on the distances involved. Since a mil-dot is 3.6 inches, then for me to hit the bullseye of a target at 80 yards, I would need to move the scope up 1.4 mil-dots (five inches).
At 100 yards I’d need to adjust upwards roughly 3 mil-dots. At 30 yards I’d have to adjust down about 2/3 of a mil-dot.
At ranges farther than 100 yards, the drop-off of the pellet is so great that it’s almost silly to try to use the scope to target anything. At 120 yards I’m probably right at the edge of the scope’s visible area. at roughly 6 mil-dots.
Now, one of the guys on the Youtube video was hitting starlings at 120 yards with a six mil-dot adjustment. That’s pretty frickin’ awesome.
The above graph is purely hypothetical. What you really need to do is to empirically determine your gun’s ballistic profile using the pellets you intent to shoot with. Obviously the faster your gun shoots, the flatter the ballistic trajectory and therefore the less adjustment you have to make.
Assuming my new gun is accurate enough for this stuff to matter, I’ll have to figure out it’s ballistic performance with the pellets I have.
This would be one reason to use lighter pellets, just to flatten that curve and reduce the amount of adjustment you have to make…